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'Promptly at 8.30 a.m.' That was the instruction from Shirley
Carr, HPB manager at Barnham Broom, who had arranged the
whole thing. So there we were: six of us who had decided that a
whole day out on a sailing barge off the North Norfolk coast was
an experience not to be missed.
An hour or so by mini-bus saw us safely at Morston Quay,
scanning the outer harbour for our distinctive masts and rigging.
Greeted by Gill, we were assured that Juno was on her mooring
and our ferry would shortly be with us.
And so she was, the Skipper Charlie Ward ready to hand us
on board with our personal gear and some promising looking
boxes containing our lunch. Emerging from the narrow inner
channel, we saw Juno for the first time: smaller perhaps than
some of us expected but undeniably handsome and, as we quickly
discovered, thoroughly shipshape. As Charlie explained with
quiet enthusiasm, Juno was recently built in his own boatyard to
his specification, combining the essential qualities of a half-size
sailing barge with all the convenience of modern systems and
equipment. A brief conducted tour below deck confirmed that,
in all respects, she was a well-built vessel.
The weather promised well, with a good breeze, and we were
soon motoring out of the sheltered harbour past the seal colony,
through the narrow channel in the sandbanks and out into the
more lively open water beyond.
Already stimulated by the bracing sea air, we were further
refreshed by the coffee that was speedily produced by Gill from
below. She, it soon became apparent, performed all the duties
of the crew with an efficiency and lack of fuss that was both
impressive and reassuring, coupled with a friendliness, warmth
and charm that could not have been surpassed.
Charlie for his part was clearly a skipper for whom Juno was his real pride and joy. As we continued to motor into the wind to save time (rather than tacking to the west), he gave us a relaxed but knowledgeable commentary on the features of the coastline as we passed. It was apparent that he really enjoyed having us as his guests, helping us to gain the greatest of pleasure from this special day. Then came the moment we had all been anticipating. Without fuss, Charlie and Gill swiftly set about unfurling and setting the sails so that, as the boat went about, we instantly ran before the wind. It was truly exhilarating.
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A privileged turn at the wheel, with sun high overhead and bracing breeze in one's face, contributed to a newly weather-beaten look by the end of the day.
But more was to come. Back through the sandbank channel -
well clear of the tips of a 1930s wreck that was showing as the
tide ebbed - we cruised quietly to a spot just opposite the seal
colony that we had passed earlier. There, Charlie set Juno ashore
on a huge sandy beach.
Now a table was set up in the cockpit. The wine - red, white and
rosé - appeared magically from below. As we nibbled at nuts and
quenched our thirst, we reflected on the morning's experience
and anticipated the lunch to come. By now it was early
afternoon, breakfast a distant memory, and we were truly ready
to satisfy the sea-voyage-induced appetite that had miraculously
developed without any effort on our part. A tasty starter passed
up through the hatch. More wine. Then below decks to make
substantial inroads into the delicious buffet. Even more wine.
And another trip below for a choice of deserts. A little more
wine? Coffee? Contentment!
As we sat we gazed at the seals and the seals gazed at us. The tide
dropped further until the water amidships was below knee-depth
and we were able to climb down onto the sand and stroll far
away into the distance.
As we stood by the water's edge, seals on the opposite side started
to waddle and plop into the channel, gliding across to form a
semi-circle, closing in for a closer look, surfacing just two or three
yards away; a quick scrutiny then submerging as quickly as they
had appeared. This really was communing with nature.
The afternoon wore on, the sun shone, the wind dropped and it
developed into a calm and beautiful evening - a tranquil end to a
perfect day. Eventually we motored quietly to Juno's anchorage,
sails long since neatly furled, then onto the ferry for the return
trip up the channel to Morston Quay.
Looking back on Juno, we could all reflect on a truly magical
experience and on the deceivingly effortless way in which Charlie
and Gill had done everything they could to give us a day to
remember; a day to cherish for years to come.
A grand day out indeed.
Duncan McLeish
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